We know you love options. Choices. The ability to find the right fit the way you define it. That's why we started Saint Harridan in the first place. But you can't make the right choices without a bit of knowledge. It's less complicated than it seems, and a bit of understanding can complement your build and your attitude with the perfect design. Click below to learn about:
Look Hot Under Your Collar
We can't offer you a custom look without asking you to make a few choices, but we don't want to be a pain in the neck. That's why we don't ask you to choose without giving you the know-how to do it right. Check out this quick guide to different collar types and you'll never be tied down to a shirt you don't love.
When it comes to collars, "spread" refers to the distance between the collar points. It's the space between that's being described, rather than the collar itself...frickin' poetic, right? A medium spread is your standard-sized opening—rounder faces are especially complemented by the medium spread. It is also considered the "right" size for a Windsor-knotted tie - but once you know the rules, you can feel free to break 'em.
Wide spreads leave more open space, and are often preferred by those with narrower and/or more angular faces. Some simply find the wider spread more comfortable, and you can dress it just as fashionably.
Extra Wide Spread
We'll give you three guesses how this collar got its name. Not medium, not wide, but extra wide. Means bigger. Packs an awesome punch touched up with a giant Balthus knot. Or a Bubba's-belt-buckle-sized bolero. Or nothing at all for a truly expansive look.
Originally created for a more sporty and casual look, the button-down collar was born for the perpetually-loosened tie. After decades of struggle, though, this collar is finally gaining acceptance in the world of business and formal wear. If the fixed and angular look is up your alley, toss a narrow pinstriped tie around your neck and you're good to go all day.
Do You Have the Right Cuff?
One cuff ain't enough, so we've got a variety—more cuffs than you might have seen at Stonewall, in fact. And to help you make sense of your wrist-embracing options, we've created this handy guide to cuff styles: order your fully custom-fit shirt without going out on a limb.
One-Button Adjustable Barrel
It's not exactly a barrel of laughs, just a regular ol' shirt cuff for that classic, squared-off look. One rectangle of fabric with a slight curve, one button hole, and two buttons to allow for a relaxed fit or a tight grip depending on your preference. Adjustable, like the name says. Unbutton, and the sleeve rolls up nice and neat for a round of after-hours arm-wrestling that won't cramp your style.
One-Button Adjustable Miter
Take the traditional barrel cuff, give the corners a snip, and voila! You've got a mitered cuff to step up the formal look. If you're going to opt for the mitering, you'll also want a sleeve length that allows your shirt to poke out a touch from under your jackets. The epitome of business-wear class, and again, it adjusts—tighten up or let loose as you wish.
Fancy meets DIY in the fold-back French cuff. Instead of stitching a double layer of fabric at your wrist, we make you do the work: you get an extra long shirtsleeve to fold back yourself to form the French cuff—the fanciest of all cuffs. Secure your hand-made fold with some of our cufflink hardware, and you'll be fit for the office or a far more formal affair.
French-cuff look, no heavy folding involved. Just a single layer of fabric encircling your wrist and held together with cufflinks. Super fancy meets laid-back island life with this look; it's a little less traditional but a little more breezy.
The Placket Racket: Putting on a Good Front
Shirt buttons put added stress on the fabric where they're sewn in—it's like the patriarchy trying to hold itself together while bodily autonomy tries to pull it apart. In order to handle the stress, the fabric where the buttons go is doubled or tripled. That double (or sometimes triple) layer of fabric is a placket.
We offer two placket styles for most of our button down shirts: standard and French. Many prefer standard plackets on almost everything, as French plackets can look very formal or even uniform-like. Of course, some like the seamless look of the French placket no matter what the occasion, and who are we, the placket police?
A standard placket is what you're likely to see on, well...a standard shirt. There's a visible seam on the non-fastening side of the placket, creating a band of about an inch that runs top to bottom along the whole length of the shirt.
Standard plackets create a sense of symmetry with their dividing line running down the torso, and help break up solid colors and lighter patterns to add visual interest.
French plackets are going through an existential crisis and can't be seen. Instead of a visible seam on the front of the shirt, the fabric is doubled on the shirt's underside to leave a clean, flat look, like so:
French plackets are usually preferred with heavy patterns, including prints and some plaids, because they allow the pattern to continue unbroken right to the edge.